Now that advertisers for mascara no longer feature models with lash extensions or pictures that have been altered, we can finally start to see exactly what these so called miracle formulas can actually do. But there are still some of us who struggle with products and end up looking as if a huge black spider has taken up residence on our upper eye lids.
So for all of us ladies out there, myself included, who want our eye-lashes to look longer and fuller, here is our ultimate guide for perfect lashes.
Get the right brush
There are so many types of brush on the market that it can be confusing to know which one is the best for applying mascara. Mascara brushes come in two types, the traditional twisted wire brushes and the more recent injection molded brushes (plastic bristles molded around a plastic core).
Traditional wire brushes are good at picking up a lot of the mascara product in its brush and getting it on the lash. This is great if you want to achieve a lot of volume. These brushes work by placing a lot of mascara at the base of the lash, and then pulling it through the rest of the lashes. However, this can cause the lashes to stick together, and not good if you are looking for a more defined lash look.
Molded brushes are best at defining and separating lashes as because they are molded and made of plastic, there is little chance of the bristles sticking together. So a molded brush is much better if you prefer a more defined look where the lashes are individualized and separated.
Then there is the shape of the brush as each brush is specifically made to perform a specific task and will also determine exactly how much mascara is deposited on the lash. Generally speaking, you should use a curved brush if you want your lashes to be curled, a tapered brush is used for multiple effects, the thicker brushes are good for volume, conical brushes deliver volume and length, use flat-edged and comb for definition whilst thin brushes define and separate.
The size of the brush is also important, as large brushes will apply more product, whilst smaller brushes enable an easier application.
Choose the right mascara formula for your lashes
The final mascara look is down to 70% formula and 30% brush, so you really need to choose the correct mascara product for you. There are two main classes of mascara: regular and waterproof.
Regular mascaras combine waxes, polymers, and pigments in a water-based emulsion. Water is used as it helps to enhance certain lash attributes as it can be absorbed into the lash and bloat diameter, and can also help curl. Waxes are added to help the mascara glide on beautifully, and the polymers help bind mascara to itself and the lashes.
Waterproof formulas have little or no water in them and are good for a longer lasting effect, however, they do have some limitations. You can’t build quite as much bulk onto the lash, or incorporate ingredients that would go into a water phase. Waterproof mascaras are also more difficult to remove.
Choose formulas with fibers and polymers in their ingredients if you want length, and if you want volume, then look for waxes. The higher up in the ingredient list will be an indication of how much product is in the formula.
Mascaras also come in wet or creamy formulas. Wet formulas are thinner and easier to spread across the lash, and can be used to create a very dark and dramatic look, however, you can’t build on them as applying too many coats will just end up making the lashes clump together. Thicker, creamier formulas are much easier to build, so you can thicken the lashes with them much more effectively.
Learn the proper technique
It will not matter if you have chosen the correct brush and the right formula if you do not know how to apply the mascara.
If you want a fresh, wide-eyed look, sweep one to two coats of mascara in an upward motion to lift and add length to the lashes. If you prefer a more dramatic and fuller look then try and deposit more mascara at the root of the lash. Wiggle the brush at the base of your lash before moving the brush through the lashes, and remember to let the layers of mascara dry before you reapply.
Experts advise that for a general tip you should use a creamy formula with a straight brush, and for novices, choose a smaller brush for the easiest application. If you are a complete mascara newbie then it is best to stay away from large brushes and wet or gel mascaras, as they can get messy very quickly.