As Burberry streamed their live fashion catwalk show at London’s Kensington Gardens, they were watched by several million fans, including celebrity fashionistas Michelle Dockery, Freida Pinto, Victoria Pendleton, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Tinie Tempah. The label has been live-streaming their fashion shows now for several years, and it has almost become a bit of a fixture with LFW.
Pundits and journalists however, have been caught out before, and missed the start, which is always punctually dead on time. But those who made it and were seated, either on the front row, or at their screens, would have been suitably impressed with this season’s offering. And many experts are hailing this to be one of the best Burberry collections in a long time. We can see why, when you take one element of the label’s pieces, the trench coat.
A classic item of clothing for the British weather, and a staple from Burberry, the brand has completely revamped the coat, mixing up textures, patterns, adding larger lapels and pockets, and using ox blood leather as a material. And we have to say that whatever the deisgners behind this transformation were thinking, it definitely works.
It appears that Christine Keeler, and Creative Director Christopher Bailey have been inspired by a hard, sexy look, that matches edgy leather and textures, with gorgeous embellishments and sexed up tailoring. Gone are the soft, romantic and dainty styles, now replaced with a nod to a sexy dominatrix with bags of class. Think Dita Von Teese dressed to impress, but staying this side of restrained.
Bailey himself has declared this new sexed-up Burberry as the future of the lable, and cannily christened the new take on the traditional macs as Trench-Kissing. “I love a bit of subversion with romance, ” he said. “It’s sassy, sexy. I like the idea of an inverted world. there’s traditional trench coats mixed with rubber. It’s the idea of these two worlds clashing. Something sweet contrasting with something sexy. Heritage and established with something sassy and naughty. There’s an air of elegance, but underneath there’s this kinkiness.”
Bailey teamed his ‘prim’ models with the more racy outfits, which allowed him to be a little more saucy with the styling: “I put the girls in these kitten wedges so they had quite a prim walk,” he said. “But then I put them in these vinyl skirts, patent leather, rubber, metal. Something to make the heart race.”
And the designer behind the revamped trench is already thinking about next season: “Usually at the end of a show I’m thinking about the next one,” he says. “I’ll go back to the office now and write them down. Music is so important to the shows. because shows are all about entertainment and they’re about emotion, and about making people feel something. People have to feel it in the fashion, but also in the lighting, the music, the atmosphere. It’s a combination of all of those things.”